KamimachiKamimachi area - Stroll through the magistrate's residence and market that have been around since the Edo period

Japan Travel Samurai x "Japanese and People's Exchange Chitose" project "Japanese Walk". In the sixth installment, we continued with model and actor Jo Morinaka and took a walk around Kamimachi Station on the Tokyu Setagaya Line.

What is the area around Kamimachi Station?

The Kamimachi district around Kamimachi Station on the Tokyu Setagaya Line is a mainly residential area located almost in the center of Setagaya Ward. It flourished as the territory of the Kira clan since the Nanboku-cho period, and during the Azuchi-Momoyama period, a free market was held here, which was the origin of the Boroichi market that is synonymous with Kamimachi. During the Edo period, it became the territory of the Hikone Domain, and there are historical spots such as the Setagaya Daikan Yashiki, where the magistrate lived. Also worth checking out.

Setagaya Magistrate's Residence

From Kamimachi Station, we first headed to the Setagaya Daikan Yashiki. Located a five-minute walk from the station, this mansion was built in the mid-Edo period and is also known as the Oba Daikan Yashiki, as it was the official residence of the Oba family, who held the position of hereditary magistrate for 20 villages in the Setagaya domain of the Hikone domain until the Meiji Restoration. This is the only remaining Daimyo Daikan Yashiki in Tokyo, and due to its rarity, the main house and front gate were the first residential buildings in Tokyo to be designated as Important Cultural Properties by the national government.

Setagaya was under the control of the Hikone Domain as the Musashi Province Setagaya Domain of 2,306 koku from the Edo Period. The Oba clan, who were hereditary magistrates, were senior vassals of the Kira clan during the Muromachi Period, but after the downfall of the Hojo clan, they returned to farming as local samurai, and later served the Ii clan, the lords of Hikone Domain.

The current building was built by the seventh head of the family, Rokubei Morimasa, around 1737. It was extensively renovated in 1753 when Morimasa became a magistrate, and it is believed that the hipped roof front gate and other structures were built at that time.

The mansion has a hipped roof and thatched roof, and includes the main house, a later built internal structure, and a garden. Inside the main house are a spacious 18-tatami mat "hall," as well as the "office room" and "next room" that were used as offices for the magistrates. The room known as the "seppuku room" is said to represent the sincere attitude of the Oba family, which states, "If anything ever happens, I will perform my duties here, prepared to commit seppuku." For a limited time, there are days when you can step onto the tatami mats and wooden floors to tour the interior.

Additionally, since the magistrate was responsible for maintaining public order, there are remains of a white sandbank in the courtyard, and the gravel from that time still remains.

On the same premises is the Setagaya City Local History Museum, where you can see historical materials and artworks related to Setagaya City. Admission is free, so feel free to stop by. The nearby Machilus thunbergii, which has been selected as one of the "100 Famous Trees of Setagaya," is also a must-see.

Boroichi Street, famous for its "Boroichi" market

Next, we headed to Boroichi Street. During the Edo period, it was part of the Oyama Road, bustling with people making pilgrimages to Mt. Oyama, and today it is a quiet shopping street that calls itself the "home of the magistrate." Every year, on December 15th and 16th and January 15th and 16th, Japan's largest flea market, Boroichi, is held here for four days, attracting many people.

Boroichi is a flea market with over 440 years of history that has been designated an intangible folk cultural asset by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government. Its origins date back to the Rakuichi market that began during the Azuchi-Momoyama period. It is said to have first been held in 1578 by Hojo Ujiyasu, the lord of Odawara Castle at the time, in Setagaya Shinjuku, where Kira Ujitomo, the lord of Setagaya Castle, ruled. At the time, it was held six times a month on the 1st and 6th, and was therefore also called the "Rokusai Market."

After Toyotomi Hideyoshi's Odawara Campaign destroyed the Hojo clan and abandoned Setagaya Castle, the market that had been held in the castle town rapidly declined. Eventually, it transformed into a New Year's market held once at the end of the year, selling agricultural equipment and New Year's goods. During the Meiji period, it began to be held on the 15th of the New Year, and eventually extended to four days, as it is today.

The name comes from the fact that in the Meiji period, the market started to handle a lot of used clothing and rags. Currently, in addition to used clothing, the market sells a wide variety of products, from antiques and old tools to daily necessities, food, and plants, with a total of about 700 stores! It has become a huge flea market that is visited by more than 200,000 people a day. With the rows of stalls lined up, just looking at them is exciting. Don't forget to try the rag market's specialty, "Daikan Mochi," which has been on sale since 1975.

In addition, once every five years, local people dressed in Edo period clothing hold the "City and Town Magistrate Patrol Procession." This is a reenactment of the Edo period magistrate procession, and the last time it was held was in 2023.

Vegans too! Avocado-filled "Avocado Donuts"

Located on Boroichi Street is Avocado Donuts. This shop sells handmade donuts made with avocado without using any animal products such as eggs, milk, or butter. It is a new type of shop created by the founder of Hara Donuts.

The donuts are made with carefully selected ingredients, so they are safe for children to eat, and are also recommended for people with egg or dairy allergies. Every Wednesday they sell avocado croquettes in limited quantities, and these healthy croquettes, which do not contain any animal ingredients, are popular with vegans. They also sell avocado croquette burgers in limited quantities every day.

Morinaka chose the standard "plain" and "kinako" flavor. The fragrantly deep-fried donut had a soft and chewy texture that was irresistible, and she ate it quickly, saying "delicious." Other popular items include the "an donut," which is filled with a different red bean paste filling each day.

Large and delicious Kyoto-style takoyaki at Takobo Main Store

After enjoying the sweet treats, we decided to try something salty! Our next stop was Takobo Honten, a long-established takoyaki shop founded in 1998. It's a Kyoto-style takoyaki shop that has been featured in the media many times and has long lines of people waiting to get in.

The takoyaki here are characterized by their crispy outside and hot, gooey inside. They also offer great value for money, with six large takoyaki for just 600 yen.

Morinaka also took a bite of the "Kyoto-style Takoyaki Original." He huffed and puffed as he ate the hearty, hot takoyaki, exclaiming, "It's delicious!" Other recommended takoyaki that can only be eaten here include the "Pepper King," which is enjoyed with salt and black pepper, and the "Pepper Queen," an irresistible combination of black pepper and cheese.

【Today's walking course】

Setagaya Daikan Yashiki → Boroichi Street → Avocado Donuts → Takobo

[Spots visited this time]

"Setagaya Daikan Yashiki" 1-29-18 Setagaya, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo
"Boroichi Street" Setagaya 1-chome, Setagaya Ward, Tokyo
"Avocado Donuts" 1-28-13 Setagaya, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo
"Takobo" Enomoto Building, 1-16-24 Setagaya, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo