AsakusaA walk from Asakusa to Oshiage and the Skytree [Part 1]

Japan Travel Samurai x "Japanese and People's Exchange Chitose" project "Japanese Walk". In the third and fourth episodes, we continued to go around Asakusa and the Skytree area with actor and sword fighting instructor Yuya Shimada. This time, in the third episode, we will introduce Asakusa.

Asakusa area retains the atmosphere of the Edo period

Asakusa in Taito Ward, Tokyo is a famous tourist spot both in Japan and abroad. The area, which is filled with the atmosphere of the Edo period downtown area, centered around Sensoji Temple and the Nakamise shopping street on the approach to the temple, is perfect for strolling around in traditional Japanese clothing. There are also many kimono rental stores.

Asakusa has been a bustling downtown area since the Edo period, and there were many freak shows in the Asakusa Okuyama area in particular. At the end of the Edo period, "Asakusa Hanayashiki" (then called the botanical garden "Hanayashiki") opened. It is now popular as an amusement park where you can experience Japan's oldest roller coaster.

After the show tent was relocated to Asakusa Park Roku-ku (Asakusa Roku-ku) in the Meiji era, Asakusa Roku-ku became the center of entertainment. Currently, there is the "Mokubakan Popular Theater" in Asakusa Okuyama, where you can enjoy popular theater, and the "Asakusa France-za Engeijo Toyokan" in Asakusa Roku-ku, where entertainers perform a variety of variety shows from manzai to acrobatics, and both are visited by many people.

From stage costumes to yukata, the long-established, famous store, Yamatomi Kimono Store

At Shimada's request, we stopped by Yamatomi Kimono Store before our stroll. This long-established kimono store, located on a corner of Denpoin Street, has been in business since 1973. They stock a wide variety of unique products, from stage costumes and yukata to Japanese accessories such as folding fans, and can even make custom-made kimonos from rolls of fabric. They are particularly well-known for their costumes for dance and popular theater. They also stock a wide variety of kimonos for men.

The owner, who has also received the Order of Culture, is very friendly. He has a wealth of knowledge, so no matter what I ask him about, he will immediately show me kimonos he recommends. This time, he introduced me to a variety of kimonos, including the Komochijima, Wave and Plover, and Sennari Gourd patterns.

Shimada-san discussed and after much deliberation about a bright-colored kimono, she successfully purchased one. "It feels new and I like it," she said. The carefully selected kimono will surely become an unforgettable memory.

Sensoji Temple and Kaminarimon Gate

The symbols of Asakusa are Kinryuzan Sensoji Temple, commonly known as Sensoji Temple and its Kaminarimon Gate. Sensoji Temple is the oldest temple in Tokyo, founded in 628 (the 36th year of the reign of Empress Suiko). It was originally founded when a pair of fisherman brothers enshrined a statue of the Bodhisattva Kannon that they had discovered in the river. Since the Heian period, it has developed into a religious holy place, and many military commanders have visited, including Minamoto no Yoritomo, Ashikaga Takauji, Hojo Ujitsuna, and Tokugawa Ieyasu. It has suffered numerous disasters, including fires, but has been rebuilt each time, and is now a popular spot visited by around 30 million people from Japan and overseas each year.

The main gate of Sensoji Temple is Kaminarimon. Its official name is "Fuuraijinmon" (Wind and Thunder God Gate), and the gods of wind and thunder are enshrined on either side. The date of its construction is unknown, but it is believed to date back to 942, when the Heian period warlord Taira no Kinmasa renovated the temple's buildings and pagodas, and built the gate in Komagata. It was moved to its current location after the Kamakura period, and has since been burned down and rebuilt many times.

The current lantern was rebuilt in 1960 with a donation from Matsushita Konosuke, the founder of Matsushita Electric Industrial (now Panasonic). The giant lantern with "Kaminarimon" written on it is 3.9m tall, 3.3m wide, and weighs 700kg. The lanterns have been hung since around 1800, but the characters "Kaminarimon" were inscribed on it when Matsushita donated it. The current lantern is the sixth generation.

The dragon carving on the bottom has been carried over from the original, and it is said that touching it will bring you good fortune, and setting it as your smartphone wallpaper will help you save money.

Enjoy a stroll along Nakamise Street

Asakusa Nakamise Shopping Street is a shopping street that stretches from Kaminarimon to the Hozomon Gate. It was established around the Genroku to Kyoho period (1688-1736), when people who cleaned the grounds of Sensoji Temple were given the privilege of setting up shops within the temple grounds and on the approach to the temple.

Currently, the street is about 250 meters long and is lined with about 90 souvenir shops, restaurants, etc. We recommend taking a leisurely stroll while glancing at the red lanterns, illuminated signs, and souvenirs and sweets lined up in the small shops.

Visit the main hall of Sensoji Temple

Once you pass through the vermilion Hozomon Gate, you will see the large main hall. However, before proceeding to the main hall, you should first purify yourself at the Omizuya (water basin) on the right side of the main hall. Wash your hands and rinse your mouth with the water coming out of the dragon's mouth in the water basin. Incidentally, the dragon god statue above the water basin was created by Takamura Koun.

Next, you will be bathed in smoke from the incense burner in front of the main hall to ward off impurities and evil spirits. There is a legend that bathing in smoke will heal any ailments in your body, so this is a spot where many people are always bathing in smoke.

We then proceed to the main hall, where the principal image of the temple, the Bodhisattva Kannon, is enshrined. This hall has also been damaged and rebuilt many times, with the current structure being rebuilt in 1958 using steel-reinforced concrete. The main hall features a large lantern measuring 4.5m in height, 3.5m in width, and weighing approximately 600kg, with the characters "Shinbashi" painted on it. This has been donated by the Tokyo Shinbashi Association, which is made up of the Shinbashi entertainment industry, since 1958. The current lantern was donated for the ninth time in 2020, and the names of the restaurants and geisha are inscribed on it.

The interior of the hall is divided into an inner sanctuary and an outer sanctuary. The highlights of the outer sanctuary are the paintings "Dragon" by Kawabata Ryushi on the ceiling, and "Tennin" and "Sankane" by Domoto Insho. The colorful and beautiful paintings are so captivating that your neck will hurt. In the center of the inner sanctuary is the palace, where the secret Buddha statue of the principal image of the temple, the Kannon Bodhisattva, is enshrined, as well as the Gozentate (a substitute for the secret Buddha statue) of the Kannon Bodhisattva. It may seem like it would be difficult to enter, but you can go up to the inner sanctuary, so please give it a try.

Eat your way through Asakusa!

Asakusa is a mecca for eating while walking! However, it is bad manners to actually eat while "walking" so you should only eat in the spaces around shops or on benches in the temple grounds where eating and drinking is permitted, but there are plenty of snacks you can take with you.

Of course, we'll try eating our way around the Japanese food on our stroll. First, we'll head to Tokiwado Kaminari Okoshi Honpo Kaminarimon Main Branch, located right next to Kaminarimon. This is a famous store selling Asakusa's specialty, Kaminari Okoshi, that has been in business since the late Edo period.

It is a sweet made by adding starch syrup and sugar to "okoshi-tane" (rice or flour) made by steaming and roasting rice or flour, and solidifying it. Tokiwado Kaminariokoshi Honpo's basic version contains peanuts. There are various types, such as matcha and seaweed flavors, and ones that contain maple syrup and coconut instead of peanuts. There are two types of okoshi: the traditional firm type and the soft, crispy type.

At the main store, they even hold live demonstrations and sell freshly made okoshi. They also offer "Katana okoshi" (brown sugar flavor), handmade by a live craftsman, as a limited edition item. It is a popular item with both domestic and international tourists.

Next, we went to Asakusa Menchi, a famous restaurant on Denpoin Street where there are always long queues. Its menchikatsu is touted as the "new specialty of Asakusa" and has been featured in many media outlets. The meat is a blend of Kanagawa Prefecture's brand pork "Kouza Pork" and Japanese Black Beef, and is full of sweet and juicy meat, wrapped in a crispy batter made from fresh breadcrumbs! Another great thing about it is that it's served freshly fried. Shimada was surprised after taking a bite, saying, "It's hot, it's sweet, and it's really juicy!" It's a dish that can be eaten in no time, even in the hot summer.

However, it was a hot and humid summer, so in search of something cool, I went to "Ichigozado," a select shop related to strawberries, also located on Denpoin Street. Their "Strawberry Smoothie" contains 16 frozen strawberries, so it's like drinking strawberries! They offer "Wakocha" (Japanese black tea), which allows you to enjoy the refreshing taste of domestic black tea; "Milk" where the sweetness of milk matches the strawberries; and "Amazake" (sweet sake), which has a rich flavor, each with its own unique taste, perfect for the hot summer.

Daikokuya, a long-established Tendon restaurant

Asakusa has many long-established, famous restaurants that have been loved for many years, but this time we selected Daikokuya Tempura, a long-established restaurant founded in 1887. We enjoyed their signature tempura bowl in a restaurant with a nostalgic, retro atmosphere reminiscent of the Showa era.

The golden brown tempura, fried only in sesame oil, and the secret sweet and spicy rich sauce are a perfect combination. Shimada-san also gave it high praise, saying, "It's ridiculously delicious. The sauce mixes well with the rice, and it feels more like a complete dish than just a bowl of rice."

【Today's walking course】

Yamatomi Kimono Store → Kaminarimon → Sensoji Temple → Nakamise Street and food tour → Daikokuya

[Spots visited this time]

"Yamatomi Kimono Store" 1-37-8 Asakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo
"Sensoji Temple" 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo
"Nakamise Shopping Street" 1-36-3 Asakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo
"Daikokuya" 1-38-10 Asakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo