TodorokiA relaxing stroll to Todoroki Fudoson and Todoroki Valley, Tokyo's most popular spots

Japan Travel Samurai and "Wa to Hito no Koryu Chitose" have finally launched their new project "Wa Sanpo". "Wa to Hito no Koryu Chitose" is an organization in Setagaya Ward, Tokyo, that works to build local communities and promote the area through experiences of Japanese culture that can be enjoyed by adults and children alike, with the theme of "Community Exchange x Japanese Culture". This time, Japan Travel Samurai and I held a "Wa Sanpo" tour of the area in kimono. For the first time, we took a walk in the Todoroki district of Setagaya Ward, Tokyo with actor and sword fighting instructor Shimada Yuya.

What is the Todoroki district of Setagaya Ward?

The setting for this Japanese stroll is the Todoroki district of Setagaya Ward, Tokyo, a quiet residential area in the southern part of the ward. The area is home to a shopping district and a sprinkling of trendy shops in the back alleys around Todoroki Station on the Tokyu Oimachi Line, the base of the area. The area is also known for its lush greenery, including the only ravine in Tokyo's 23 wards, Todoroki Valley.

Let's start from Todoroki Station on the Tokyu Oimachi Line.

The Japanese walk begins at Todoroki Station on the Tokyu Oimachi Line. It is about a four-minute train ride from Jiyugaoka Station, a transfer station between the Tokyu Toyoko Line and the Tokyu Oimachi Line. Please note that only local trains stop at Todoroki Station.

From the south exit of the station, it's a leisurely 5-minute stroll while enjoying the beautiful scenery of fresh greenery to arrive at the first spot, Todoroki Fudoson Temple.

Todoroki Fudoson Temple, beloved by locals

Todoroki Fudoson is a sacred site that was established during the Heian period by Kokyo Daishi Kakuban, the founder of the revival of Shingon Buddhism, who received a revelation in a dream from the statue of Acala carved by En no Gyoja. According to legend, following a revelation in a dream that "there is a place of fate in Musashi Province," Kokyo Daishi came to Todoroki carrying En no Gyoja's Acala carving, and discovered the same valley as in his dream. When Kokyo Daishi carved out a rock with his shakujo, a waterfall began to flow. Todoroki Fudoson was founded when he placed Acala carved over the waterfall.

Currently, it is a branch temple of Manganji Temple of the Shingon sect of Buddhism, and its official name is "Takigozan Myooin Temple." The mountain gate was relocated from the old Manganji temple. The principal image is Acala, and it is the 17th temple of the 36 Fudo Myo-o Pilgrimage Sites of Kanto, and the 33rd temple of the 88 Tamagawa Pilgrimage Sites. It is affectionately known to locals as "Todoroki's Acala," and it is a place where you will feel welcomed even if you just happen to drop by.

The shrine's benefits range from protection from misfortune to traffic safety and matchmaking. It is also known that during the Sengoku period, the lord of Setagaya Castle, Maita Kira, prayed for victory. By the way, the Maita Kira clan ruled from Setagaya to Maita in Minami Ward, Yokohama City, Kanagawa Prefecture, and were originally from the same clan as the Mikawa Kira clan, who are well known from the story of "Chushingura."

Todoroki Fudoson is located on a cliff in Todoroki Valley, meaning on high ground, so you can enjoy the beautiful view of the valley from the observation deck within the temple grounds. When I visited, I was able to enjoy the beautiful fresh greenery, but it is also famous as a famous spot for cherry blossoms in spring and autumn leaves.

If you get tired of walking, you can take a break at the rest area called "Shiki no Niwa" in the temple grounds. You can enjoy coffee and soft serve ice cream. The soft serve ice cream also has seasonal flavors.

If you go down the stairs in the grounds of Todoroki Fudoson, you will find Fudo Falls, which is said to have been created by the monk Kakuban. One theory is that the name "Todoroki" (doroki) comes from the way Fudo Falls roars. It has long been known as a power spot and a place for ascetic training, and today a thin waterfall tumbles powerfully from the mouth of a dragon embedded in the cliff. Above the waterfall stands the dark statue of Acala, silently watching over visitors.

Be sure to visit the shrine beside the waterfall, where Inari Daimyojin and Acala are enshrined.

Todoroki Valley, a "summer resort" in Tokyo

Todoroki Valley is a valley that stretches for about 1 km along the Yazawa River at the southern end of the Musashino Plateau. It is the only valley in Tokyo's 23 wards, but it is so lush and green that it's hard to believe you're in the city, making it feel like a summer resort. The temperature in the valley surrounded by trees is about 3 degrees lower than above ground, and you can feel the refreshing air as you descend the stairs from Todoroki Fudoson. Enjoy a leisurely stroll while enjoying the cool, clear, and lush green space.

There are more than 30 springs in Todoroki Valley, which has been selected as one of the 57 best springs in Tokyo. The springs have created a rich vegetation, and you can enjoy a variety of plants. The charm of Todoroki Valley is that you can enjoy nature in every season, from plum blossoms in winter, bamboo shoots and cherry blossoms in spring, fresh greenery and autumn leaves, and acorn gathering.

A beautiful bamboo forest spreads across Todoroki Valley. As you stroll through the area, listening to the cool rustling of the bamboo leaves, you will come across the Japanese garden. Created by Showa-era landscape gardener Iida Jukki, the Japanese garden was built in 1973 and the Shoin study in 1961. Take a leisurely stroll up the stone-paved steps, and when you get tired, take a break in the Shoin study. There is a grassy area next to it, which is a popular picnic spot for locals.

Be careful as there are restricted areas

As of June 2024, more than half of the walking trails in Todoroki Valley are closed to traffic and off-limits, except for the area around Todoroki Fudoson. This is because a fallen oak tree was discovered on the walking trail in July 2023, and Setagaya Ward conducted a tree survey, which revealed 52 "dangerous trees" in the park that required emergency felling. The ban on entry is scheduled to be lifted in fiscal 2025.

The off-limits area includes the Golf Bridge, Tamazawa Bridge where the 8th Ring Road passes, and the cave tomb No. 3 from the end of the Kofun period to the Nara period. The Golf Bridge was named after the huge golf course covering about 8 hectares that was located here in the early Showa period. Looking up at the red bridge from Todoroki Valley, you can take a photo that contrasts beautifully with the surrounding greenery.

The No. 3 cave is a 13m deep grave shaped like a jug split in half. Three human bones were found with grave goods such as earrings and pottery, and it is believed to be the grave of a powerful person who ruled the Todoroki area.

There are many other attractive spots in the restricted area. As soon as the tree cutting and other work is completed, the areas will be opened one by one, so we look forward to the lifting of the ban on entry.

Listen to the sound of the waterfall at the rest area "Setsugetsuka"

There is a spot in Todoroki Valley where you can take a relaxing break. This is Setsugekka, a resting place located right next to Fudo Falls. At Setsugekka, you can enjoy matcha green tea, rakugan, oshiruko, anmitsu, amazake, ramune, and more. They also have kuzumochi, which is only available on weekends and holidays. In the summer, they also serve shaved ice and tokoroten.

This time, I selected cold matcha and anmitsu. I enjoyed the traditional Japanese sweets along with the sounds of the waterfall and the babbling brook. I'm sure I'll get addicted to taking a break in this refreshing space that you wouldn't expect to find in the city.

【Today's walking course】

Todoroki Station → Todoroki Fudoson → Todoroki Valley → Setsugekka
Just a five minute walk from Todoroki Station, Todoroki Fudoson and Todoroki Valley are perfect for a stroll.

[Spots visited this time]

"Todoroki Fudoson" 1-22-47 Todoroki, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 158-0082
"Todoroki Valley" 1-22-26 Todoroki, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 158-0082
"Setsugetsuka" 1-22-47 Todoroki, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 158-0082